One of the most common questions around dandruff and an itchy scalp is also one of the most frustrating to answer. Should you wash more often to remove flakes, or wash less to avoid irritation. Advice swings between daily washing and barely washing at all, which usually leaves people experimenting rather than understanding what is actually happening.
The issue is that hair washing frequency does not exist in isolation. It interacts with scalp oil production, barrier function, product choice, and how reactive the scalp already is. Changing how often you wash without considering those factors is why results are often inconsistent.
Washing removes oil, debris, and loose flakes. In the short term this can improve appearance and reduce itch. The scalp often feels calmer immediately after washing. Over time, however, frequent washing can push the scalp into compensation mode. Oil production increases to replace what is repeatedly removed, and the scalp barrier can become more reactive. This is why some people feel clean but itchy again within hours.
At the other extreme, washing very infrequently can allow oil and scalp flake buildup to accumulate. That buildup can trap flakes against the scalp, increase microbial activity, and make dandruff more visible rather than less. In these cases itch is not always dryness. It is congestion.
This is why the real question is not how often you should wash your hair in general. It is how often you should wash given the current state of your scalp.
When dandruff is oil driven, more frequent washing can temporarily help by reducing surface oil. When dandruff is linked to irritation or barrier disruption, frequent washing often makes symptoms worse. Many people experience both patterns at different stages, particularly after years of rotating anti dandruff shampoos.
Another overlooked factor is how washing is done. Vigorous scrubbing, repeated shampooing in one session, and very hot water all increase scalp stress. Hot water feels good, especially on an itchy scalp, but it strips away the natural oils that support a healthy scalp environment. That temporary relief often comes at the cost of increased dryness, rebound oil production, and more itch later on.
This matters even on days you are not washing your hair. Standing under hot water without shampooing still affects the scalp. Using a shower cap on non hair washing days can help reduce unnecessary exposure and give the scalp a chance to settle rather than being repeatedly stripped by heat alone.
There is also the issue of habit. Many people wash daily because it feels routine rather than because their scalp needs it. When the scalp is already irritated, that routine can prevent it from stabilising. On the other hand, stopping washing abruptly can lead to a rebound phase that feels like failure rather than adjustment.
I documented this in my Founder Journey experiment of fifty five days with no hair washing at all with any shampoo products, just water. What surprised me most was not the dryness at the start, but the progression from dry, to uncomfortable, to extremely oily.
That experience highlighted that oil production is not fixed. It responds to removal. When washing stops suddenly, oil output often increases before it normalises. That oily phase is frequently mistaken as proof that washing less does not work, when in reality it is part of recalibration - just don't wait 55 days!
A more useful approach for most people with dandruff is to think in terms of minimum effective washing. This means washing often enough to prevent buildup and discomfort, but not so often that the scalp is constantly being reset. For many people this sits somewhere between two and four washes per week, adjusted based on response rather than rules.
It is also important to allow time between changes. Washing frequency adjustments need weeks, not days. Judging results too early usually reflects transition rather than outcome.
If washing more often helps initially but symptoms return faster each time, the scalp may be compensating. If washing less leads to heaviness, itch, or visible flakes, buildup and microbiome imbalance may be the issue. Both signals are useful. Neither means you are doing it wrong, just figure out what works best for you without blindly using anti-dandruff shampoos daily. This is not a solution anyone signed up for.
The goal is not to find the perfect number of washes. It is to create conditions where the scalp is not constantly reacting. When washing frequency and water exposure support scalp stability rather than a control mechanism, dandruff becomes easier to manage and itch loses its urgency.
Hair washing is a tool, not a cure. Used deliberately, it can support scalp health. Used habitually, it just adds noise.
Matt Heron - Victory Serums Founder
